Looking at the pristine forest, with varied flora and fauna that accompanied us the entire four days expedition, I remained complacent that Bhutan authentically deserved “Earth Champion Award”. The environment conservation is one among the four pillars of the Gross National Happiness and is also clearly enshrined in the Constitution of Bhutan. The National Policy of preserving forest coverage of 60% of its land coverage for all time to come is a dream almost a reality. The unperturbed nature, all in its purest form charmed me no less. There is no denying that the forest can be maintained intact if there exist such virgin forest even outside the protected area system and the biological corridors.
We were almost to the top of the ridge. The sun is already high in the sky. We rested for the lunch (packed one) in the clearings at the top of the ridge. No sooner we reached the mountain, the atmosphere buzzed. We have left the sounds of trucks and cars far behind and it should not be audible. Looking up in the blank air, resting ourselves lying flat on the ground with exhaustion, we saw the Druk Air on its daily trip to faraway land. I assume, a man is sitting cozily by the soft cushion of the plane’s seat. Reading a magazine, he is almost dozing to slumber when an air hostess approach him, “Sir, what would you like to have?” “I would like to have a glass of brandy please,” as he sips the brandy, he goes to sleep with effect from brandy.
Low below on the ground, we are shedding our most water. It is midday and we have grown hungry. Until we refuel with the packed lunch, we are really tired. Now what? Who is lucky, the porter? Three of us? Or the man on the plane?
Whatever, invigorated by the packed lunch, (having it was almost like a dry picnic). The time we opened up the packages, it went so cold with the cold blizzard-like air of the Teolapang. The food Tashi brought in Bangchung has hardened that it can be played as surrogate doegor. We were playing with it, when it dropped from my hand and off, it went rolling down the slope. We had very hearty laugh. We never ran after it coz we had enough rice to eat from other’s pack lunch.
We resumed our journey, until dusk. We then selected an appropriate site and pitched our tents we carried with ourselves. The night turned out to be most chilling with our teeth going tak…tak…tak (North Face feather jacket couldn’t fight enough). Yet, we made a big fire on the mountain-top and warmed ourselves. When we were warming our front, our back started getting cold and vice versa. Turning it every time was an interim remedy.
After the dinner, we retreated back into safety of the tents. The life’s chief nourishes, the angels of the night that free us from all qualms and balms abandoned us. Unlike the soft cushion of the mattress back home, I had a hard earth beneath me. Every turn I make to comfort myself, fell my backbone in the pebbles that were plentiful. It was no better medicine for the body-aches and the fatigue from the long hours walk. The night was terrible of all nights. Didn’t even close my eyes to go to sleep with cold from above and the hard earth and the pebbles from beneath. My friends shared no better luck.
The same condition continued for next two halts in the jungles. I tried to go to sleep the other night, fearing I might get sick from inadequate sleep; I was awakened by the loud bark of the deer nearby. If it is not the bark, there are many other wild beasts, some of whom chose to walk en route our place of halt or to command, “this is our place and we belong here”.
Finally with the big sigh, gushing out all air in the lungs, we reached the destination towards the fourth day. The first look into the village startled me. It is very beautiful village, standing in congregation perched on the face of the mountain. The houses built close to each other, signifies their close bond and their belonging to their village set. The settlements were all surrounded by the farmlands, some kamzhing but mostly the tseri (shifting) cultivations. We stayed by the RNR-Centre for all our days.
Well, Bangchang made the integral liquid component in the village. The time you enter someone’s house, instead of the tea, you are served hot bangcang, singcahng, Ara and Tongpa….the list goes on! I preferred Bangchang since it is much milder.
I am never accustomed with its taste, that the first ever gulp I took, made me cough wild, and with the cough brought back the sip I have taken. It exited from every hole in my body, nose and mouth. When I thought I have got not much of space for it in my stomach.
Soon, we befriended the village people and had an archery match. All in their best form, the villagers in their best gho some of whom looked like they have prepared themselves to attend a tshechu, we staked an ox as bet. The dull village life suddenly went vibrant. The young ladies came in their best attire and poured out their best melody…starting from Joenpa legso…bum ngegey mikhar legpey
Takshar so on so forth while we shouted on top of our voice. The ladies danced by the ground in middle of the archery range and they startled us with the most exquisite numbers they put, some of which we have never heard of. Now, I have pretty picked up the Bangchang taste and could resist few more cups hehehe.
Before we realized, it was our time to come back. Yet, we have another confrontation to endure- the back journey we dread. We would have chosen to remain there but the reason it brought me to this village, it pulled me back to my station-the call of my duty.
Now, under the soothing of the warm home safely back to my station, I pen this travelogue for the benefit of other extension mates, who will feel that, they are not only the ones enduring this. This will hopefully help them take supplement breath but they run out of breath trying to negotiate steep climb. Lets all walk extra mile and make difference to the farmers.
.......................THE END..........................
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