Cypress Surprise

It’s said that every cypress tree in Bhutan tells a tale. And indeed each one has a story. It just takes going around asking about the tree to unveil it. Besides being the national tree of Bhutan the cypress is associated with diverse myths and beliefs. Every grain of the cypress tree seen majestically towering over the dzongs, temples and stupas is imbued with intricate stories. Such stories are the greatest surprise surrounding the cypress.

The two formidable trees at Baylangdra in Wangdue and at Kurjey in Bumthang are no exception to this. Their origin can be traced to the walking stick of the great Indian saint who visited Bhutan in 8th century. When such trees are planted, they’re done to serve as the ‘standing proof’ of the flourishing dharma. Often it is said that the trees will grow only if there is a prophecy that Buddhism will exist without waning. The trees cater to the locality as symbol of worship and blessings.

The giant cypress tree growing near the Kurjey Lhakahng is believed to have been planted upside down to the incredulity of science, and if the deformation still seen among the branches is anything to believe. The guarding of the tree is also believed to have been entrusted to Shelging Karpo – the local deity subdued by Guru Rinpoche. Hence, for anything to do with trees, special permission needs to be sought from the clay idol of the deity in the sanctum by rolling a pair of dice. To film the tree, our team had to roll the dice several times until we received the auspicious number.

If you need validation of how fiercely the tree is protected by the local deity, you only need to listen to Lam Wangchuk of Kurjey Lhakhang. He narrates an incident where the preceding Lam after performing special ‘soelkha’ (offering) instructed a monk to cut a small branch to be used as ‘Zung’ (inner relics) for newly built stupa. As the monk started sawing the branch, from beneath the bark, instead of the tree sap, red blood oozed out. The monk survived for another three years after this incident. Lam Wangchuk calculated that the tree is 1201 years old and every attempt by monks to propagate the tree has been futile.

The cypress story of Baylangdra is equally fascinating and surprising. Proof that the tree grew from Guru’s walking stick is prominent and visible from one vantage point which gives you a clear view of the fork at the top which represents the point for resting the palm against the walking stick. The tree is also believed to house relics and confer blessings equivalent to five monasteries.

Every year the tree is revered on the 15th day of 8th month of the Bhutanese calendar, a day known as ‘Tsenden tsechu’. Come the day, all 35 households of Bay chiwog congregate in the small flat area around the tree and circumambulate the prayer-wheels surrounding the majestic tree. During the day-long ritual, the community can relish and relax in the tsechu atmosphere the entire day. The sponsor for the festival is rotated among community members on an annual basis.

From the porridge served at day-break, the repast continues far past dawn. However, respecting the sanctity of the day, no meat of any kind is included in the menu, according to Daw Penjor, resident of Bay Village.

Many visitors from faraway places visit holy cypress trees such as those at Bay Langra and at Kurjey Lakhang. But while the holy trees are a boon to the visitors, the visitors are a bane to the trees. They collect the bark, branches, twigs, leaves, cones and all parts of the tree to be used as materials for blessings

Such are the wonders of the cypress in Bhutan.